Pressure Cooker: Why Home Cooking Won't Solve Our Problems and What We Can Do About It

Food is at the center of national debates about how Americans live and the future of the planet. Not everyone agrees about how to reform our relationship to food, but one suggestion rises above the din: home-cooked meals. Amid concerns about obesity and diabetes, unpronounceable ingredients, and the environmental footprint of industrial agriculture, food reformers implore parents to slow down, cook from scratch, and gather around the dinner table. Voting with your fork, they argue, will lead to happier and healthier families. But is it really that simple?

Informed by extensive interviews and observations with families, Pressure Cooker takes seriously the difficulties and dilemmas of feeding a family that food reformers and writers often ignore. From picky eaters and ill-equipped kitchens to hectic schedules and stretched budgets, Sarah Bowen, Joslyn Brenton, and Sinikka Elliott consider the deep-seated differences that pass through the kitchen and profoundly shape what and how we eat. This book looks closely at the lives of nine diverse families to examine the class inequality, racism, sexism, and xenophobia that shape the work done in kitchens across America. Parents from all backgrounds have heard the relentless advice to take the time to put fresh food, preferably locally-sourced organic fruits and vegetables, on the dinner table each night, but only the most advantaged families can manage it.

Romantic images of family meals are inviting, but they create a fiction that does little to fix the problems in the food system. Even worse, such notions put pressure on families--especially mothers--to strive for an ideal that has never been simple to achieve. Pressure Cooker demonstrates that if we want a food system that is fair, equitable, and nourishing, we must look outside the kitchen for answers.